Border crossings

Since I last found time to write, many of the foundations of our trip have shifted. October has turned to November, and counter-intuitively the weather has warmed from fleeces and wool socks to short sleeves and sandals. We've left Chile for Peru. And we have finally, at long last started handing in our graduate school applications. We might very well be on the verge of a whole new state of travel, but before it arrives I should back up and fill in the busy steps that led us here.

Our farewell to Chile was one of our trip's pleasant surprises. The Chilean chicas we met in Torres del Paine (Elaine, Pamela, and Manola) invited us to come visit them in Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. And we, being two people who will always follow up on a free bed in a beautiful city, accepted. Our friends, it turned out, were the daughters of some fairly important Chilean naval officers, and we spent four fabulous days being toured around, spoiled with free laundry, and stuffed with delicious food. Valparaiso's streets are kaleidoscopic and Vina's beaches are gorgeous, but the highlight of the stay was the chance to relax with friends, have a movie night, and eat so many chips and biscuits you might need a stomach pump.

Valparaiso

 

The beach at Quintay



Pamela, Me, Brianne, and Elaine

You may have noticed that our Chilean friends look every bit as gringa as we do. In fact, you may very well suspect us of bringing in German and Scottish ringers to make ourselves look more culturally engaged. But Valparaiso, like the United States, has a long history of European immigration, and many of the Chileans we met there could have passed for Swedes. As for our Chileans, they gave us a spectacular send-off by introducing us to Piscola and taking us dancing until 6:00 AM: the perfect preparation for a 30-hour bus ride leaving at 7:00 AM. We dozed easily in and out of the marathon ride from Santiago to Arica (in the north of Chile), waking only occasionally to take note of the expanse of desert outside and the terrible movie selection inside.

After a night of recovery in Arica, we took a packed taxi ride in a Ford Taurus across the border to Tacna, Peru. From there, yet another bus hauled our tired selves from Tacna to Arequipa, our first real stop in Peru. Finally we had a four-day stay to rest our fluid-swollen feet, power forward on our graduate school applications, and greet Peru by exploring a truly beautiful city.

Sunset from the roof of our hostel

And yes, Peru has brought us (finally) to the beginning of the end of graduate school applications. Unfortunately, hitting submit has so far brought less relief than a general sort of post-partem anxiety. Is this really all I have to show for months of agonized labor? Can I have it back for a second and try to sound smarter? What's more, applying to graduate school has evolved into something of an existential state for me. It's part of my identity. I live in hostels and apply to graduate school. What will I do with myself after it's done?

It's time to find out I suppose. We're in Peru, November spring flowers are blooming, and a whole new phase of the trip is beginning. Cross your fingers that next time you hear from me, I will be celebrating thirteen completed graduate school applications with a Pisco Sour and a Cusco sunset.